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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred venues. However, nestled prominently among these food titans is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

A Surprise Honour

The compact Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I’m utterly surprised,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble place achieving such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender consistency.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.